|Bundle of Joy|
A place where every building has a story to tell through the exquisite paintings on its walls, where serenity prevails even in the busiest traffic, where strangers greet like they’ve known each other for ages and man lives in complete harmony with nature despite the progress in technology – that in a nutshell is Bhutan for you. In the five days I spent in Bhutan with my friends, a number of intricate details touched me more than the natural view, Dzongs and trekking experiences, without a mention of which my account of this trip would remain incomplete. In our 8-hour journey from the border town Phuentsholing to Paro, we could not hear any honking, even in the twists and turns of the hilly roads. In fact, it was the sudden outrage of vehicle horn that woke us from the dream we were living in Bhutan, on our way back to Kharagpur, India. Another impressive thing about the Bhutanese, according to me was that “Formals” to them mean their own traditional attire, rather than the conventional western suits- be it in the monastery or in administrative offices. This trip to Bhutan seemed like a time travel to the period that our parents often talk about- when people were much closer to the nature around them, when kids spent played outdoor games on the streets without their parents running behind trying to protect them from “calamities” like catching a cold or tripping off and injuring their knees; when people were less worried about the future and more indulged in enjoying the present. For the old-world dreamer that I am, the tour was really the much-needed break from the modern mundane life of ours.
Did you know Bhutan is the only carbon-negative country in the world? Which means while the wealthy and powerful nations contribute to increasing CO2 in the atmosphere, this tiny land-locked Himalayan country absorbs more CO2 than it produces!! If we aid them with money, let’s not be too proud of it because Bhutan aids the world with Oxygen
It was a surprisingly warm day when we reached Hasimara at 1p.m. After immigration formalities and lunch at Jaigaon, we set off for our 8-hour long journey to Paro, a beautiful town in the lap of the Paro valley that is home to hundreds of legends from the Bhutanese and Buddhist history. What we were not aware of despite the research we did prior to our tour was that 31st January 2014 was the 1st day of the last month of the Bhutanese calendar, which according to their tradition was the Day of Offering, similar to the Thanksgiving day of the US and Canada. We were rejuvenated after the long tiresome journey by the warm reception given by the proprietor of our hotel at Paro, who told us about this day celebrated as Buelwa Phuewi Nyim – the Traditional Day of Offering.
|Way to Chele la pass|
|As we leave Chele la for our next stop|
We spent a great time there enjoying tea and making futile attempts of capturing the spotless beauty of nature in our high-resolution cameras, after which we set off for our next destination, the Rinpung Dzong – the ancient court of justice and administrative building of Bhutan.
At this point, I would like to pause and put a note on Dzongs. Loosely translated as “fortresses”, the Dzong architecture is typical to the Buddhist kingdoms of the Himalayas. Every valley of Bhutan has at least one Dzong which is considered to be the most elegant building and a trendsetter for all the building architecture in that area. Every Dzong has an administrative part and a monastic part which are separated from each other. Bhutan homes the world’s oldest and most spectacular Dzongs, each of which is an architectural wonder. [Courtesy: National Library, Thimphu]
We then visited Ta Dzong– the national museum of Bhutan situated on the hill above the Rinpung Dzong, which was built as a watchtower during the wars of the 17th century to defend the Rinpung Dzong. The place took us on a memorable journey through the history of Bhutan- the small country with a population of less than 6.5lakhs, its rich cultural diversity and the faunal biodiversity. Outside the gate of the Dzong, we met a little Bhutanese girl who couldn’t understand a single word that we spoke but stuck around us while we posed for photographs.
Our last destination for the day was the Kyichu Lhakhang monastery, one of the oldest shrines of Bhutan built in the 7th century. It is considered extremely sacred by the Buddhists and is famous for a pair of evergreen orange trees that bear fruits throughout the year.
Here comes the day that we were most excited about- a 3-hour hike to the famous Taktshang Lhakhang- more commonly known as the tiger’s nest. It enjoys the status of being one of the most sacred sites for the Buddhists all over the world. Perched atop the cliff 900m above the floor of the Paro valley overlooking the Paro river, trek to the Tigers’ nest was a rough thrilling path inlaid with thick vegetation all around. It is my first trekking experience, I was full of zeal and started climbing up the rocks energetically despite not being in my best health. On the way to the monastery are a small Lakhang (a small village level monastery) and a temple. This is a viewpoint from where the copper-colored rocky mountain on which the Taktshang Lhakhang is built looks like the face of a fierce demon (a fact cited by one of our fellow Bhutanese co-travelers on our way back). There is a cafeteria on the path below this viewpoint for tourists and travelers to relax a bit.
The monastery comprised of eight temples each of which housed hundreds of mystical stories. Legends hold that Guru Padmasambhava (popularly known as Guru Rinpoche) arrived at this point from Tibet on the back of a tigress and meditated in the caves for 3 years, 3 months, 3 weeks, 3 days and 3 hours in the 8th century. The monastery was first built in 1692 around those 13 caves but was destroyed in fire twice, latest being in 1998 and the reconstruction was completed in 2005. One of the disciples in the monastery spoke to us about the various legends associated with the place and took us to each of the temples. We were awestruck at the splendor of this ancient building and the stories encompassing the mystical caves. The thrill and wonder of this amazing place made me forget the pain in my ankles and we returned with our hearts filled with awe at the mystery of the land.
Punakha, the former capital and still the winter capital of Bhutan are endowed with warm temporal climate and the Punakha valley is the abode of the richest soil in Bhutan owing to the natural drainage provided by the two main rivers, Pho-chu(father river) and Mo-chu (mother river).
|Druk Wangyal Lhakhang – don’t worry about the pronunciation just awe at its beauty|
We then drove our way to the enthralling Dochula Pass, the famous pass between Thimpu and Punakha that gives a 360-degree panoramic view of the Himalayan Range. The pass is decked by 108 chortens known as Druk Wangyal Chortens built opposite to the temple Druk Wangyal Lhakhang. The snow-covered Himalayan mountains provide the perfect backdrop to the pulchritudinous pass that is a center of attraction for locals and tourists alike.
Our next stop was the Punakha Dzong, the second largest and second oldest Dzong of Bhutan built at the confluence of Pho-chu and Mo-chu rivers on the Punakha- Wangdue Valley. This majestic building stood the test of time and was rebuilt and restored its past grandeur by the present King, after being destroyed four times in the past due to fire and earthquake. This is the Dzong where the royal wedding of the present King of Bhutan took place in 2011.
|Bridge on Paro River|
|Punakha Dzong, Bhutan|
|Basking at the beautiful riverside beneath the Himalayas|
We were standing before a temple inside the Dzong listening to the mystical chants when all of a sudden we heard the cries of some monks and found some of them rushing out of the temple with canes in their hand hitting hard on the grounds. For a moment we were stunned and fled like a bunch of terrified kids, but soon we discovered that it was a part of an annual ritual that is performed at this Dzong, and felt lucky to have witnessed it.
Our last destination for the day was Chimi Lhakhang– the fertility temple located on a hilltop in the farmlands of Punakha. It is believed that couples who don’t have children get their wishes fulfilled when they worship at this temple. When we reached the temple through the dusty road with lush green fields on both sides, the evening puja was going on, and an occult ambiance was created inside the temple. A guide was depicting the various legends associated with this temple to some foreign tourists, about how a demoness camouflaged as a dog to fool the Lama Kunley but was ultimately pointed out and subdued. Lama Drukpa Kunley was a monk who preached Buddhist philosophy in form of simple tales and was known as the “Divine Madman” for his unconventional ways- a personality that we can very easily relate to our very own saint Sri Rama Krishna. The temple is decked with frescos and statues depicting the legends associated with it. Outside the temple were two Shivlings, a huge Peepal tree and lines of colorful flags fluttering in the pleasant breeze in the evening. The mountains far away shimmered like gold during the twilight as we made our way downhill back to the cab. We stayed overnight at a small hotel at Wangdue.
Illustration of legends inside the temple
|Chimi Lhakhang temple|
Our last day at Bhutan was dedicated to the capital, Thimphu that exhibits a unique juxtaposition of modern developments with the ancient traditions. Born in the lap of the Wang-Chuu valley, Thimphu is the abode of the historically and politically important buildings and is the center of economic and government activities of Bhutan. We started off from our hotel at Wangdue at 8.00a.m. and drove through the scenic Dochula pass to reach the Thimphu valley.
Our first destination for the day was the National Memorial Chorten. It was built in 1974 by Her Majesty Queen Phuntsho Choden Wangchuck in memory of her royal son the 3rd Druk Gyalpo, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuck, popularly accepted as the Father of modern Bhutan. Also known as the Thimphu Chorten, it is considered to be the “most visible religious landmark of Bhutan” the frescos and statues inside which gives an insight into the Buddhist philosophy.
|Thimpu Chorten – the most visible religious landmark of Bhutan|
|Gate to Thimpu Chorten|
We visited the Changankha Lhakhang, a fortress-like temple standing high amidst the ruins of its past splendor, where young children in Bhutan are named. Established in the 12th century, the temple houses a splendid statue of Chenrezig with 11 heads, a group of three very large prayer wheels and rare large scriptures. The courtyard of the temple provides an amazing bird’s eye view of the Thimpu valley.
|Changankha Lhakhang, Bhutan|
We then reached the Buddha Point, a place at an elevation of 300 ft above the Wang-chu river bed where stands the grand bronze statue of Gautam Buddha under construction, known as Buddha Drodenma. The 169 ft statue is going to be the tallest statue of Buddha and is envisioned to become the probable eighth wonder of the world. Overlooking the capital town Thimpu, this temple will have 1,00,000 8-inch idols and 25,000 12-inch idols of Buddha inside. We were spellbound at the view of the city from the courtyard of the temple. Later, from our hotel far away from the Buddha point, we could still see the majestic spiritual body, the first thing in the morning when we woke up to bid farewell to the kingdom of Bhutan.
|The Lord Buddha|
On our way to the Takin preserve, we caught a glimpse of the one of the most important Dzong of Bhutan, the Thimphu Dzong which has served as the seat of Bhutan’s government since 1952. The pompous beauty of the Dzong thrilled us, but we came to know that the Dzong is open to visitors of for 1 hour from 4pm to 5pm, after the flag is pulled down ceremoniously. so we went past the Dzong and arrived at the Motithang Takin preserve that is a safe abode of the national animal of Bhutan classified under “vulnerable” species. It is the largest and sturdiest goat antelope in the world that can be found only in the Himalayan regions in and around Bhutan. Legends have that this animal was created by the great Buddhist Lama, Drupa Kunley- the reason Takin was declared the national animal of Bhutan in 2005. This place was originally a mini-zoo but was converted into a preserve where the animals could roam about freely, under the orders of the King of Bhutan who considered it was not right for a Buddhist country to keep an animal confined in artificial shackles. The rare animal was seen living in harmony with other herbivores like deer and goats in the large open space of the preserve. Here we also found a small house outside which a local weaver was weaving the traditional colorful Bhutanese Scarfs on a machine that had a striking resemblance to the Indian charkha.
|A walk at the dusk in Bhutan|
So this was officially our last day in Bhutan- we packed our belongings and set off for our last drive through the hilly roads offering the memorable view of the Himalayas, bidding goodbye to the mountains, forests, creatures and the architectural wonders of the land of mystery and happiness. As we made our way to Hasimara, our heart was full of thanks to the people of Bhutan and our minds filled with priceless memories to be cherished for a long time ahead.
Special thanks to Himalayan Travels for planning everything for us – the itinerary, hotels, all permits, and car. Recommend them to everyone planning a trip to the Himalayas for all kind of budget http://www.planmyvacation.in/
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I've wanted to visit Bhutan ever since I learned that the country measures 'Gross National Happiness' instead of GDP. Love this article! Sounds like you had a fascinating time. Personally I would love to visit the Folk Heritage Museum, and it's great to hear that they invest their revenue into supporting underprivileged people. A highly educational read – thank you!
With Monasteries, dzongs, and dramatic landscapes Bhutan is such a dreamy place to visit. Looks like you girls had an exciting time 🙂
I've wanted to go to Bhutan for a long time and your writing really brings it to life. The Paro Valley looks stunning and of course the famous Tiger's Nest would be such a fantastic sight to see. Looks like your first travel experience was a great success.
An all girls trip to Bhutan sounds just awesome! Bhutan is so beautiful. We were there for a very short time and would want to go back for sure. Just loved the virtual tour to the country through this post. Tiger's Nest , perched at top of the mountains is definitely high on my list!
I always wanted to visit Bhutan and loved that it is a land of joy. It is really a mystic place. Great to know that this country is carbon-negative in whole world and I can now imagine, how pure is the air must be there. You have taken stunning shot of bridge over the Paro river.
Wow! I have never been to Bhutan but I'd love to visit it one day. There's a ton of lovely picturesque views to see. What a great place for trekking! Good to know that you enjoy your travel here.
VIsiting Bhutan is an amazing one-of-a-kind experience. Seems like you had a great time! You're so lucky to visit one of the least visited countries in the world 🙂
That's such a cool all girls trip. I too wish to visit such beautiful countries like bhutan with such a cool team. Well, I have been planning a trip to Bhutan since long, but never got a chance. It's great to know the fact that Bhutan is the only carbon-negative country. The Dochula Pass and Paro river are very scenic places. I hope I am soon able to make it there. Thanks for all the wonderful tips and information.
Some my favorite trips have been with girlfriends and this one looks like a beautiful one too. I hoe you guys have memories to fall back on for years.
Wow what an informative post about a place on my bucket list. I love the mountains and this is perfect for me The 8 hrs travel is a bit to much once you land but I’m sure you can fly to Faro as well. It’s one of the greenest destinations and the food is another aspect The folk heritage museum looks interesting and a place you can gain knowledge about the history. Thanks for sharing.